Appalachian Trail Journal : Part 3 – New England
Mile Post 1444.1 ~ Mt. Aglo Lean-to
June 12 ~ The spell of sunny weather has been broken. The first rainy day in
quite some time had arrived. No complaints from me, the weather had been
exceptional, a little drizzle now and then is no problem. Today we
celebrated two milestones: two-thirds of trail is now completed, and we are
in New England. Feels odd to be back "home". Knowing that where I live is
now only a three hour drive by car from now until Maine is also a weird
feeling. But, I still have many miles and many memories to live before I am
ready to go back to my "normal" life.-Paul
Mile Post 1451.6 ~ Stewart Hollow Brook Lean-to
June 13 ~ Flexibility. Flexibility. Flexibility. That is how to successfully
do a thru-hike. After I picked up my maildrop, I hit the trail again. I
think Mother Nature's kitchen sink backed up, because the light drizzle
quickly turned into a torrential downpour, complete with thunder and
lightning. (Every time there is lightning, I seem to be on a ridge line.
Makes for an interesting day.) The rain was by far the most I have seen yet
on the trail. So, I thought the heck with it, I am taking an early day. It
is dry and comfortable in this shelter. My meal is rehydrating, and Hawk and
Funk just showed up. Need days like this every so often.-Paul
Mile Post 1461.7 ~ Pine Swamp Brook Lean-to
June 14 ~ Another lazy day, mileage wise. The terrain of Connecticut is
surprisingly rugged. Numerous ups and downs give the ole legs quite the
workout. I did not leave the shelter until 9:30 this morning. Being
somewhere dry has a certain charm. Makes it hard to go off and hike. The
rain was a steady drizzle for most of the day, but as soon as I reached this
shelter, the rain came down in buckets. Talk about great timing! It is good
to be back in New England. The numerous pines and rocky terrain give the
trail a familiar feel. I am even spotting the occasional birch tree, another
reminder that I am steadily moving North.-Paul
Mile Post 1481.6 ~ Riga Lean-to
June 15 ~ OK, I made my peace with the weather. Hiking in the rain is an
expected part of a thru-hike. This kind of hiking is actually relaxing in
its own way. Since you can't see anything off the ridges, you notice other
parts of the trail that normally go unnoticed. The way a particular brook
seems to run over rocks, the small flowers peeking through the pine needles
or the scent of how a forest smells when it is raining. The only thing I did
not like about today was the shelter register. Almost every entry mentions
how incredible the valley looks from the shelter, and what a beautiful
sunrise they saw. All I see is a thick wall of fog! Oh well, can't win them
all. A dry shelter is enough for tonight.-Paul
Mile Post 1504.6 ~ June 16
Tom Leonard Lean-to ~ A steady drizzle greeted me this morning. The thought
of dry socks and boots was a fantasy that has long been given up. The trail
was more of a stream, at some points, reaching up my calf. Crossing Sage's
Ravine was a river ford. I was admiring the beauty of the ravine, while at
the same time hoping I would not get taken away by the current. The descent
down Mt. Everett was an ordeal, the mountain had streams going down the
face, the trail was a slippery scramble for the descent. A delightful day on
the Appalachian Trail. But the sun did come out, salvation was in sight! But
the trail was still unbelievably flooded. The trail near the Housatonic
River was a swamp. I am not ashamed to say I turned around and did a road
walk. The water came up to my waist, and the blazes weren't to be found.
Call it my version of a high water route. Talking to another thru-hiker
tonight, he said he swam the trail, and that the water came over his head!
Always an adventure on the Appalachian Trail or the AS – the Appalachian
Stream.-Paul
Mile Post 1525.7 ~ Upper Goose Pond Cabin
June 17 ~ Massachusetts is such a nice state to hike in. Dark pine forests,
tall birch trees, little streams and several ponds. And cows with a taste
for salt. Walking through a pasture near Tyringham, I was chased by four
cows! These cows must have seen my sweaty pack, shirt and bandana and
thought "Walking salt pile!" At one point these cows were actually running
at me, and were within two feet of me when I finally reached the stile.
People wondered about bears attacking me, who would have thought I would be
chased by cows with a hankering for salt. This cabin is a sweet place. The
porch overlooks the pond – a perfect place to drink some tea on this drizzly
night.-Paul
Mile Post 1546.2 ~ Dalton, MA
June 18 ~ An unusual sense of "deja vu" hit me when I crossed the foot
bridge over the Massachusetts Turnpike. Driving under this bridge always
meant Mt. Greylock was not too far away, now I walked over it. An odd
feeling. Tomorrow I will be at Greylock, but this time there will be no car
parked at the trailhead, no short drive home for a hot shower and work the
following Monday. Hiking on the part of the AT I am familiar with has a
different feel on a long distance hike. The same portion of the trail was a
way to blow off steam during weekends, now it is one part of a long journey.
Wonder what the trail will feel like to me after this journey is over?-Paul
Mile Post 1563.1 ~ Mt. Greylock, Bascom Lodge
June 19 ~ I can't believe the view from the summit. Three hundred and sixty
degrees of pure scenery. Amazingly enough, this is the first time I have
been on the summit when it has not been fogged in. Simply incredible what I
am seeing, the sunset should be spectacular. An incredible stroke of good
luck happened today. The centennial of the Greylock reservation was being
celebrated, so the state of Massachusetts let me stay at the lodge for the
bubble. Not a bad deal – shower, bunk, and two meals, all for being at the
right place at the right time.-Paul
Mile Post 1576.5 ~ Seth Warner Shelter
June 20 ~ What a way to start the day, seeing the tops of the mountain peaks
jut above the clouds, then having a hearty breakfast. Life should always be
this good. Last summer, I was on this portion of the trail, excited to be
doing my first long distance hike. Now instead of the Mass/Vermont line
being the beginning of a journey, it is towards the end of one. Quite a few
"Long Trailers" are here tonight. They are excited to begin their journey,
and I am anticipating the end of mine, but not with excitement, but a sense
of realization that the great experience that this thru-hike is, will
finish. Mixed emotions at that thought.-Paul
Mile Post 1598.1 ~ Goddard Shelter
June 21 ~ Warm weather and the recent rain add up to one thing: swarms of
insects! Egads, the mosquitoes thought it was happy hour on my arm. The bug
repellent kept them at bay, but they still swarmed around my head while
flies tried to imbed themselves in my hair. Luckily my handy, dandy bandana
kept them out. If I thought the insects were bad while hiking, they were by
far worse at the shelter area. Five minutes of sitting in the shelter
convinced me to tent it. The no-see-ums were unbelievably horrid. Cooking
dinner was interesting, I think there was some extra protein in my meal
tonight. The three pounds my tent weighs was worth it. The flies and
no-see-ums are all over the mesh of my tent. If that mesh were not there,
they would be on me! Now I can get a good nights sleep and dream about
swimming at Stratton Pond tomorrow evening.-Paul
Mile Post 1617.6 ~ Vondell Shelter
June 22 ~ Today was an excellent day for one big reason: Stratton Pond!
Taking a dip in a cool pond is just the cure for a muggy June day. Eating
dinner while looking out at the pond was also a relaxing way to unwind. The
shelter was full, but the tent came in handy again tonight. At five o'clock,
two women came by without a tent, or even a tarp. Since the shelter was
full, they had no choice but to push on to the next shelter, five miles up
the trail. There is a lesson in this incident. Sleep should come easy again
tonight. A gentle rain is tapping. After a day of hiking, a little swimming,
and dinner by the water, the sound of rain will be the fitting end to a good
day on the AT.-Paul
Mile Post 1637.8 ~ Peru Peak Shelter
June 23 ~ Spruce Peak Shelter is a classy place. An enclosed cabin, with
bunks and a wood stove, and a porch with chairs that are very inviting. A
little too inviting, I spent two hours sitting there and having a little
"RnR". Funny how fast time goes by when you are just doing nothing but
relaxing. The terrain is getting more difficult. I had forgotten what it is
like to climb up steep grades, then going down the other side of thye
mountain that is also steep. The knees are the best reminder of how the
terrain is more difficult!-Paul
Mile Post 1652.5 ~ Greenwall Shelter
June 24 ~ A problem at this point in the trail is that I am now in excellent
shape. Physically I can do day after day of big miles and/or little days.
That is a problem because the mental aspect of hiking goes by the wayside.
The mind has to decompress, unwind a bit. All these days of getting into
camp late does not let the mind do that. I was starting to fall into a trap
that many of us thru-hikers fall into. Mileage is everything. Down in New
Jersey, it is easy to do big days. But now it is more difficult, and day
after day of doing that is not enjoyable. I had to remind myself of why I am
out here. So when the shelter was spotted at 3:30, a decision was made! Take
a few days and relax. A few big days now and then does not hurt, but do it
consistently, and the trail becomes a task. That is something that I
definitely do not want. Knowing that the next few days will be light already
has a calming effect. Time to kick back a little, I guess.-Paul
Mile Post 1667.2 ~ Governor Clement Shelter
June 25 ~ Another hot and hazy day that makes seeing the sights fairly
difficult. But there was a restaurant ten minutes off the trail that made
for an excellent late breakfast. Sometimes it is hard to resist the call of
these places. A good meal is a difficult thing to pass up. What was nice
about the trail today was passing through this dark grove of pines. It felt
like something out of a German folktale. Almost expected Hansel and Gretel
to be prancing down the trail looking for their breadcrumbs. Also had a
great rest at a brook. The sound of water over rocks has a mesmerizing
affect. Soaking your feet in the water while soaking up some sunshine is
certainly one of the finer things in life. Tomorrow it is a short walk to
the Inn at Long Trail. Guiness on tap is a large incentive to make the miles
fly by. Haven't had a pint of good beer for longer than I care to think
about. There are just some luxuries that are difficult to do without. And a
good beer on tap is one of them.-Paul
Mile Post 1676.6 ~ Inn at Long Trail
June 26 ~ Nasty downpours at night again made the trail a small stream. No
matter, I could hear the sound of a Guinness being poured. Let it rain, let
it hail, let the mosquitoes bite – having a beer of the highest caliber
waiting for me makes any climb or weather seem like minor obstacles. It is
easy to like this place. It is almost as if someone took a piece of Dublin
and put it in Vermont. Having a bowl of stew while drinking a Half and Half
[no Bass here, it is a British beer, a definite no-go in an Irish PubI was
informed], with Van Morrison and John Lee Hooker covering "Gloria" for
background music, made this thru-hiker happy. Any place that lets my Guiness
settle for five minutes is definitely high caliber. Yup, a very relaxing day
here in Vermont. Tomorrow I will come to the Maine junction, and will then
shortly be in New Hampshire. The most rugged, but most scenic terrain
awaits. Katahdin seems to be rapidly approaching.-Paul
Mile Post 1694.1 ~ Winturn Shelter
June 27 ~ New England weather is infamous for changing quickly. Today there
was a constant battle between rain showers and sunlight. One minute I would
be in the middle of a steady drizzle, the next – the woods was covered with
rays of sun. Weird region, but it's home. The mugginess of the past few days
has broken. The days are temperate and the nights are cool. My favorite type
of weather. Cool nights keep the insects away and makes the sleeping bag
feel like a Sealy mattress. Tonight, some of the people in the shelter built
a campfire. Not only does a fire take the chill out of the air, but it is
relaxing to watch. Something about the flames licking at the logs and seeing
the orange glow of the coals, while listening to the crackling of the wood
makes for a mellow finish to a relaxing day of hiking.-Paul
Mile Post 1706.2 ~ Thistle Hill Shelter
June 28 ~ What a fantastic day! Clear blue skies, cool temperatures, great
scenery at the tops of hills, and fields of blackberries in season. Another
day meant to savor by going slow. The initial plan to push on another eight
miles to the Happy Hill Shelter went out the window when I saw how great the
day was. No need to push myself on such a gorgeous day. All the lollygagging
paid off, as well. A section hiking couple, who live not too far from
Hanover, offered to slack pack me for two days. So from Hanover until about
ten miles before Glencliff, I get to hike with a fanny pack and a water
bottle. Not too shabby. They are also letting me stay at their home for two
days. Talk about trail magic par excellence. Taking it easy has its
benefits. The trail magic was just gravy. Being able to savor a sunny June
day in Vermont was what really made it worthwhile-Paul
Mile Post 1720.6 ~ Hanover, NH
June 29 ~ Had two events that really put things into perspective today.
First, I met a Maine to Georgia thru-hiker. Then I crossed over into New
Hampshire. Meeting a southbounder and crossing into my second to last state
really makes Maine feel so close. A feature of this trail that continues to
astonish me is the comraderie. This is only my third day hiking with the
same group of section hikers, and we have already made plans where to eat
dinner, where we are staying the night, etc. The bond among hikers is a
strong one. Shared experiences create instant friendships with people of
varied backgrounds. I am so accustomed to saying hello to everyone on the
trail, that I greet everyone in town. I forget that it is odd for strangers
to be friendly to one another in "civilization". The casual and friendly
lifestyle of a thru-hiker will be missed long after the last white blaze has
been passed on Katahdin.-Paul
Mile Post 1738.6 ~ West Fairlee, VT
June 30 ~ There is trail magic, then there are trail miracles. Four of us
were met in Hanover by the couple we met the other day. Then my eighteen
miles of slackpacking began. Would not want to hike this way all the time,
but it was a nice change of pace. The kindness of strangers never ceases to
amaze me on this trip. Opening up their home for two days was an act of
kindness that will not be forgotten. I will have many thank you cards to
write when this hike is over.-Paul
Mile Post 1754.6 ~ West Fairlee, VT
July 1 ~ Very rainy, but it doesn't seem to matter as much when all I carry
is five pounds of gear. It is my last day of slackpacking and I must say I
enjoyed it. Three nights of taking a shower felt very decadent! We all went
into a nearby town for dinner. One thing I noticed in this town is
homogenous of a country this is becoming. A McDonald's and a WalMart on
every corner. Doing this trail I was able to see the pockets of
individuality that still exists in this country. The trail goes by small
towns and areas that hopefully will not see Golden Arches. A nice change
from the usual way things are done. Sometimes it is a good thing not to be
within five minutes of a Big Mac at all times.-Paul
Mile Post 1764.9 ~ Jeffers Brook Shelter
July 2 ~ Fantastic weather today, dare I hope for good weather for the next
few days? I am very excited that I hit my first above tree-line mountain
[for this hike] tomorrow. That is what backpacking is to me: step climbs
that seem to go forever, then a reward at the top. The feeling of seeing for
miles and miles is incredible. The Whites have always been my playground, it
is good to be back in them. I am getting quite used to these low mileage
days. Something about taking leisurely breaks, and still getting into camp
early has a nice feel to it. Some of my favorite places to backpack are
coming up. I plan on enjoying it.-Paul
Mile Post 1771.8 ~ Beaver Brook Shelter
July 3 ~ Incredibly fantastic weather today for my entrance to the White
Mountains. On top of Moosilauke, the mountains I am about to climb for the
next few days were in front of me. I could see the Kinsmans; a fantastic
view of the Franconia Ridge; and looming in the distance, towering above all
the other mountains, Mount Washington. I even saw Mt. Mansfield and Camel's
Hump in Northern Vermont. What an incredible sight to see. All told, I spent
five hours at the summit. Well worth every minute spent up there. There has
been some great things to see on the trail, but the Whites will always be a
favorite place of mine to backpack. And what do I see tonight from the
shelter? The full sprawl of the Franconia Ridge. Now that is a great thing
to watch while eating dinner.-Paul
Mile Post 1784.9 ~ Kinsman Pond Campsite
July 4 ~ Spending Independence Day in the Whites was a better experience
than I expected. I have been dreading the crowds that are infamous on this
part of the trail. The only people I saw hiking today were five
southbounders on their way to Springer. Apparently all the activity is on
the other side of the highway that runs between the Franconia Notch area. I
was able to enjoy the summit of Kinsman in solitude. Another fine view of
the ridge I will be hiking tomorrow. At the shelter tonight, there are
onlytwo of us. Rare enough on the other parts of the trail, never mind on a
holiday weekend in the White Mountains. Surprises seem to happen all the
time on the AT.-Paul
Mile Post 1796.0 ~ Greenleaf Hut
July 5 ~ I must admit I am an above the tree-line hiking junkie. Even though
it was foggy, the thrill of hiking on bare rock with twenty plus mile per
hour winds whipping around gets the ole adrenalin pumping. And a funny thing
happened on top of Laffayette. I was hiking along when I bumped into the
crew chief of the hut. She said she never gets thru-hikers down at the hut,
and it would be great if I stayed the night. Even though it was a mile off
the trail, I thought "why not"? So now I get to play "show and tell" to the
hut guests as part of my work for stay. The crew is extremely friendly and
treated me as one of the gang. And to make the day even better, the storm
moved out, and a clear sky shows the ridge in all its splendor. Tomorrow
will be full of great photo-ops. Funny how things work out for the best on
this trail. One moment, it is raining and foggy with four miles to go to a
shelter, the next – I am eating fresh baked bread and seeing the Franconia
Ridge against a vibrant blue backdrop of sky. This will be a lifestyle that
will be difficult to end.-Paul
Mile Post 1802.7 ~ Galehead Hut
July 6 ~ Another unexpected stop today. The crew of the Greenleaf suggested
I stop here, and I bumped into the crew of Galehead on Mt. Garfield. So I
received another invite to stay at a hut. Cool. The crews of these huts are
definately laid back. Very easy to get along with them. Spent an hour on
Garfield soaking up the scenery. The sun was warm, the display outstanding.
Feeling pretty content today. The strombolis for dinner certainly help as
well.-Paul
Mile Post 1814.4 ~ Ethan Pond Campsite
July 7 ~ There are several great things about the Appalachian Trail. One of
the things good about it are the diversity of the people using it. From
Snickers crazed long distance hikers to people out for the day. The people I
have met in the past few days have been interesting. Talked to a group of
Canadians who are hiking hut to hut, seen a grandfather out with his
grandson for a few days, and many other people. Being a thru-hiker, I am
asked all kinds of questions. But I just tell them that we are all doing the
same thing, I am just out a bit longer.-Paul
Mile Post 1823.8 ~ Mizpah Hut
July 8 ~ I am getting lazier as this hike goes on! One of the advantages of
being one of the first northbounders is that I can stay in a hut very
easily. There were very black clouds on the horizon, and the closest shelter
was five miles, up hill, above treeline. Another "work for stay" seemed very
inviting. Turns out that it was a good decision. "The Dungeon" at the Lakes
of the Clouds Hut already had seven reservations, and the hut itself was
filled to capacity. So, another early day. I was able to read, and get hot
soup and bread for a late lunch. If this goes on, I am going to forget how
to cook my own dinners. These huts definately spoil the thru-hikers. The
crews at these huts really go out of their way to make the thru-hikers
comfortable. Seems like being on the trail is one of the few places where
being on the lazy side has its rewards.-Paul
Mile Post 1838.4 ~ Osgood Tentsite
July 9 ~ Walking the Presidentials on a July day full of sunshine is a
pleasure that every hiker should experience at least once in their life.
Mile after mile being above treeline, seeing the peaks thrusting out towards
the sky. Simply amazing. The kind of experience that makes the jaw drop for
the whole day. Heck, even being on the zoo that is called Mt. Washington was
nice on a day like this. Getting off the ridge was another story however.
Dropping from over 4000 feet to 2500 feet in the space of less than three
miles was no fun. The trail was almost at a 90 degree angle in some cases.
Made for some slow hiking. When I finally did pull into camp, I met three
southbounders, a few people out for a week or so and a couple I have been
hiking on and off with who are section hiking to Maine. We all sat on a tent
platform, and the more musically inclined strummed their backpacking guitars
and sang some songs. Not a bad way to end the day.-Paul
Mile Post 1848.9 ~ Carter Notch Hut
July 10 ~ Every morning I pack up my gear before eating breakfast. Just a
habit developed over four months of hiking. So naturally the rain came down
in sheets as soon as my tent was packed up. Keep in mind, five minutes
earlier it was bright and sunny. Weather in the White Mountains changes
quickly, especially when a man is trying to eat his Pop Tarts! The terrain
of the past few days has been having an effect on me. Sometimes the terrain
is so steep that I have to pull myself up quite a few times. My arms and
chest have not been used much in the past few months, the sore feeling and
the stiffness in them quickly reminded me how rugged the White Mountains
are. Short day is my reward for the rugged hiking of the past few days. This
self serve hut is a nice place to cook some dinner and read a book. Though,
after the climb over Wildcat, I think it will be an early night in the
sack.-Paul
Mile Post 1863.7 ~ Gorham, NH
July 11 ~ Fog on the ridge, sun in the vallies. Blue skies showing, still
raining. Welcome to the White Mountains. The weather is consistent in its
inconsistency. The climbs are steep, the descents jarring on the knees. But,
I enjoy every moment of this. Seems I am thriving on the challenge. The
freedom found on this trail makes even a less than optimum day enjoyable.
This varying weather has a positive effect. A rainbow can be seen from the
hostel here in Gorham. Fantastic looking. Instead of a pot of gold, I would
like to think Katahdin is at the end of the rainbow. Less than three hundred
miles to the end of my journey. Still not sure what to expect at the end of
this little walk.-Paul
Mile Post 1875.6 ~ Gentian Pond Campsite
July 12 ~ Had a little preview for Maine in the form of three ponds on the
trail. Relaxing just to sit on the rocks and gaze at the water. A constant
on this trail is that my pack feels about right just before I pick up a
maildrop. After a maildrop, the pack feels like I put lead in it. Gives me
an excuse to take long breaks at ponds. So it is not necessarily a bad
thing. Tomorrow morning I will cross into Maine. State 14 of 14. The End.
Final Jeopardy. No thoughts on that subject except "WOW".-Paul
Mile Post 1885.2 ~ Full Goose Shelter
July 13 ~ Short, ten mile day. Ha! The constant steep climbs and steep
descents wore me out. The mileage might have been low on paper, but the
soreness in my legs, shoulders and back say otherwise. Throw in a very full
pack due to a recent maildrop and a fun filled day is had by this Georgia to
Maine hiker. In between my moaning and groaning, I actually had a good day.
Baked in the sun on Mt. Success for two hours, and crossed into Maine. Hard
to believe, but it's true. The whole moment had much symbolism. I slipped
just before the sign, and was by myself at the stateline. So I had the
solitude I enjoy and a fall because of the big klutz I am. Tonight at the
lean-to is quite weird. There are 13 Southbounders here tonight. I have not
seen this many Northbounders on the trail at one time! Odd to see this many
thru-hikers at one time. The contrast between myself and the Southbounders
are interesting. They are excited to enter their second state, and here I am
less than three hundred miles to Katahdin. An end for me, a beginning for
the rest.-Paul
Mile Post 1890.3 ~ Speck Pond Campsite
July 14 ~ The Mahoosuc Notch was fun today. Leaping over boulders,
scrambling over the rocks and seeing ice patches in the middle of July was
quite the exhilerating experience. Took me an hour and a half to do this
mile, so it was a bit on the rugged side. But, it was fun. The climb up the
Mahoosuc Arm was steep, but the reward was sweet. Another leisurely break on
a gorgeous mountain top. The day just kept on getting better. I was enjoying
myself too much to push on today. The pond was inviting to swim in. I bumped
into the caretaker, and she said I could use her inner tube in the pond.
Yahoo! So I had a great swim and then read my book while floating in the
middle of a pond. Talk about the high life! And to end this fantastic day,
four of us had a pot luck dinner at the caretaker's tent, complete with
fresh baked brownies. Life is good. Can't wait to see what happens
next.-Paul
Mile Post 1897.3 ~ Baldplate Lean-to
July 15 ~ The easy day mode is definitely switched on in me. Just felt like
getting into camp early and polishing off my book. It was a humid day, so I
think it was a good choice. Plus I was able to reduce my pack weight. Taking
it easy and reducing my pack weight. Great combination.-Paul
Mile Post 1915.4 ~ Andover, ME
July 16 & 17 ~ Funny how I came to this town. I was hot, sweaty, and
definitely not enjoying the day. Just sitting still made buckets of sweat
come off me. Then I bumped into Camel, who mentioned Pine Ellis B&B
slackpacks. Ah! I see a couple of easy days. We hitched into Andover and
checked into Pine Ellis. Well worth the unexpected side trip. I was able to
slackpack ten miles on an even hotter day and two relaxing days at one of
the friendliest, most accommodating places on the trail. Another two days of
living the high life!-Paul
Mile Post 1928.5 ~ Campsite
July 18 ~ A late start and some fairly rugged terrain made for a late
arrival at the road entering Oquossoc. Waited for nearly an hour for a hitch
that never came. So, I decided to camp not too far from the road and head
into town by another road the next day. I am glad I was not able to get the
hitch. The display in front of me was one of the best sun sets I have seen
in my life. Mooselookguntic Lake was a fiery red, with the mountains having
a pink tinge to them. Looked like something out of a Kodak commercial. One
question ran through my mind though. Is it Maine law that a certain
percentage of place names must have three syllables and be unpronouncable?
Just wondering.-Paul
Mile Post 1941.5 ~ Oquossoc,ME
July 19 ~ Maine is full of ponds! Seems like every three or four miles there
are great places to swim and to pitch a tent. One campsite even had canoes
available for use. If I was not headed into town for a resupply, it would
have been tempting to spend the day at this site. MATC even had some cut
logs available here for use as seats. Now that is the lap of luxury for
camping. Three out of four days in town is unusual for me, to say the least.
Seems like I want to splurge on the luxuries a bit now that the trip is
almost over. Glad I saved some money up before I left. At this point in the
trail many are worried about running out of money. That is one extra burden
I'm glad I don't have.-Paul
Mile Post 1952.2 ~ Poplar Ridge Lean-to
July 20 ~ Saddleback Mountain was interesting today. At the summit, in the
space of five minutes, the weather went from overcast to foggy to drizzle to
hail to sleet! Mark Twain once said, if you don't like the weather in New
England wait a few minutes and it will change! I did not take that statement
literally until today. I had many falls and bumps today. The slippery rocks
definitely gave me a few scares. One fall in particular had me wondering how
the heck was I going to get out of this without doing some major damage. In
retrospect it seems kind of comical. Yelling for ten seconds while sliding
on rocks. The only damage was a few bruises on my leg and arm. Call it trail
magic. Or just plain luck. Five months on the trail has worn me down
physically. I am in excellent spirits, but it is obvious that my body will
need some down time after this trip. I get the "hikers walk" in the morning
until I move for a little while. For those who have never seen this walk, it
is a walk where the knees hardly bend and the person is walking very
stiffly. My knees also get the Rice Crispy affect sometimes. I'll stretch
them out and they'll go "snap, crackle, pop"! Finally, there is my weight
loss. My upper body looks like Pee-Wee Herman! I weighed myself this morning
in town, bit of a shock. While I was twenty pounds or so overweight when I
began this trip, I did not think the weight loss would be as great as it
would be. Mentally and emotionally, I am doing great. I still look forward
to hiking everyday. But five months of hiking has an effect on the body. I
always joked that I was going to be a beach bum for a month or so after the
hike is over. It is no longer a joke, seems like a definate plan. Get to
trade in my Polypro for cotton. That will be different.-Paul
Mile Post 1960.3 ~ Spaulding Mountain Lean-to
July 21 ~ Decided to do a low mileage day, eat up some of my food to lighten
my pack a bit and then do some big mile days into Monson. The terrain
supposedly gets easier after tomorrow, so these past few days of short
mileage has left me geared up to pick up the pace a bit. I am well rested,
and my pack is lighter. So the higher mileage is doable. Meeting
Southbounders is always interesting for me. Not only do we swap information
on the upcoming terrain, but it is good to hear different perspectives.
Their enthusiasm gets me eagerly anticipating the next day, and I think the
fact that they get to meet someone who has hiked almost two thousand miles
encourages them. The only downside to meeting Southbounders is that they are
great people to meet and to be with. But then the next day comes, and we
don't see each other again. It is a great community on the trail, it is too
bad I do not get to know some of the members of our community better.-Paul
Mile Post 1981.6 ~ Avery Memorial Campsite
July 22 ~ I peaked out of my tent this morning and saw gray clouds and some
fog. Great – get to do another spectacular range in the fog and drizzle. But
by noon the fog burned off and had a fun day climbing up a steep trail that
had a fine view. I like to be rewarded for my hard work. And I was. Today
was the kind of day that left me pleasantly tired. Feeling like this lets me
know I had a full day, without feeling too exhausted. The past few days of
rest really helped make the day go by easy. Instead of crawling into camp
with only minutes of daylight left, I was able to get here by six and have
enough energy to cook a meal and time to unwind a bit. I find it odd how a
short day, then a long day can actually be easier on the body than two
medium sized days. Seems to work for me. If all goes well, the two thousand
mile mark will be hit tomorrow. Still amazes me how far I have come.
Springer Mountain seems like a lifetime ago. In a way, it is. I do not think
I am quite the same person of two thousand miles back. This trail is more
than just a journey from Springer to Katahdin. It has been a journey of
memories and experiences that will stay with me and affect me long after the
photo at Baxter Park is taken. Cliche though it may be, I may leave the
trail, but I don't think the trail will ever leave me.-Paul
Mile Post 2003.8 ~ North Branch,Carrying Place Stream
July 23 ~ The best time to be on a mountain peak is early in the morning.
For some reason it is tranquil on the summit at this time of day. The whole
setting puts the mind at ease, getting a good frame of mind for the rest of
the day. Almost made the push to Pierce Pond Lean-to tonight. But I hate
getting into camp late. Though I will miss a pancake breakfast at
Harrison's, I would not enjoy it very much if I was exhausted. I am an early
riser, so there should be no problem making the ferry across the Kennebec
River. Had my worse accident yet on the trail. The on and off rain of today
made for a very muddy and slippery walk. Needless to say, I slipped. Falling
down, my right arm sunk into the mud and was cut on a rock in the mud. Kind
of like a nastier version of a Cracker Jacks prize. I looked at my arm and
noticed a nasty gash. Great. Just what I needed, stitches. Once I cleaned it
out though, I noticed the bleeding had already stopped and the cut was more
superficial than it first looked. So I now have a four by four dressing on
my arm held in place with some snazzy looking duct tape (of course). Should
also have a nifty looking scar as a momento of my hiking in Maine.-Paul
Mile Post 2024.8 ~ Bald Mountain Brook Lean-to
July 24 ~ Crossing the Kennebec River was a big psychological boost. A major
milestone of the trail, and crossing that river really made me feel like I
was coming to the end of my journey. Celebrated this occasion with an early
power lunch of a litre of Mountain Dew and a pint of Ben and Jerry's. This
combination always seems to make the miles fly by. Tomorrow I will be in
Monson, my last trail town. My friend Tim and his girlfriend Nicole will be
meeting me there. Tim will be putting up with me for a week to hike the
Wilderness. Haven't seen any of my friends in five months, so tomorrow will
be a great day. Five months of dumb jokes, wise cracks, stories and general
news will have to be discussed in the coming week. I am curious to see if
Tim or Nicole notice any changes in me. (Besides the fact that I now look
like a cross between Grizzly Adams and a war refugee).-Paul
Mile Post 2046.9 ~ Monson, ME
July 25 ~ Walked into Monson with much anticipation. My last trail town, the
last push before Katahdin! As I approached Shaw's, I noticed a car with
Rhode Island license plates. My friends have arrived! Tim and Nicole could
not believe how different I looked from five months ago. Nicole kept on
saying "You are smaller than me"! (But at 5'6", I am smaller than most to
begin with,my weight loss really makes me look tiny!) They both thought my
beard was 'interesting'. After woofing down several plates of food, Tim and
I did much talking. Between my stories of the past five months, and his news
of what was going on at home, it was a late evening. It is almost 12:30AM as
I write this, well past a thru-hiker's bedtime! Tomorrow we will start our
hike of the Wilderness. The final stretch before the end of this journey. I
have hiked many miles and have had many memories on this hike. Hard to
believe in a weeks time, I will have no more white blazes to follow, no more
climbs to make. I look forward to being on Katahdin, but it will be hard to
end what has been the most satisfying five months of my life.-Paul
Mile Post 2059.9 ~ Campsite
July 26 ~ The first day in the Wilderness had a nice pace to it. Hiking with
Tim made the whole day feel like a weekend backpacking trip. But, as Tim
said, "Weekend trips do not last a whole week"! Well put. Had a major stream
crossing in the form of the Big Wilson. Actually had fun doing this
crossing. Something different from the daily routine of hiking. Finally came
to this spot around 5 o'clock. No reason to push to a shelter when there is
a nice camping spot. A grassy, abandoned logging road with a small stream
made for a good place to spend the night. Tomorrow we will face the most
difficult terrain in the Wilderness. Should be interesting.-Paul
Mile Post 2077.1 ~ Pleasent River
July 27 ~ The Barren-Chairback Range was indeed hard hiking. Many steep
climbs, but, oh, what a gorgeous day. Getting to the Barren Cliffs made
every ounce of sweat expended well worth it. Seeing all these lakes mixed in
with the lush green of the woods was like looking at a watercolor painting
come to life. Just had to have a break and soak up the sunshine and scenery.
Finally made it to another nice place to camp. Some Southbounders told us
about. Flat, not too far from the stream. After pitching the tent, took a
refreshing (polite way of saying "GAWD! THAT WAS COLD!") dip in the river,
and ate dinner. Another satisfying day on the AT.-Paul
Mile Post 2089.8 ~ Logan Brook Lean-to
July 28 ~ You would think two buddies who have not seen each other in five
months would have many meaningful things to talk about. Where we are headed
in life, what I have gained out of this trip, what means the most to us.
Nah. We are guys after all.(grin) And more importantly, we are guys who
hike. So we talked about what every hiker dreams about: FOOD! All we could
think of was food we crave. From steaks and burgers on the grill, to Big
Macs, to all you can eat Chinese food buffets, to my mother's homemade sauce
with meatballs and sausage, to Taco Bell, etc. etc. etc. You cannot
understand why food is such an important item for hikers until you have
experienced this small hole in the stomach that is never quite satisfied. No
matter how much I eat, I am hungry soon after. It is a black hole of
calories that exists in my stomach. We are excited about hitting Abol Bridge
in a couple of days for frozen, microwave food. The thought of frozen
cheeseburgers are actually making me excited. Food is energy, and you can
never get enough of it on the trail. But the discussing of food all day was
not the only thing we did. Believe it or not, we actually hiked a bit.
Getting to the summit of Whitecap Mountain was the best moment of the day.
Could actually see Katahdin in the distance. My first view of this mountain.
The end of my journey was in sight, only fifty miles away. The next fifty
are supposed to be the easiest part of the Wilderness. We shall see. Trail
rumors have a funny way of not exactly being 100% accurate.-Paul
Mile Post 2110.9 ~ Lower Jo-Mary Lake
July 29 ~ The trail has many pleasures to offer. From the broad sweep of
grassy fields on a bald in the South, to the majestic landscape of the
Grayson Highlands, to the rugged beauty of the White Mountains. But, I think
I enjoy these quiet, subtle moments, more. This campsite is by far the best I
have ever been in. A natural beach on the quiet shores of Jo-Mary Lake. The
wind is a slight breeze, and the sun is reflecting on the lake with a soft,
orange glow. I am writing this journal entry by the water, listening to the
gentle sounds of the waves lapping at the shore. A place that lends itself
to contemplation. This place and moment is best enjoyed in silence. Nature
is doing all the talking that needs to be done for tonight.-Paul
Mile Post 2134.4 ~ Rainbow Springs Campsite
July 30 ~ Funny how we ended up at this spot tonight. On the map, I saw a
place by an abandoned dam that looked promising for a campsite. Supposedly
had a trail leading to the spot. Well, I guess we passed it, or the side
trail was not very well marked. I kept on saying "We are almost there!" or
"I think the mud is slowing us down a bit, that must be why it is taking so
long to get there." Optimism is an easy trait to acquire when it is the end
of the day and you are tired and really, really, REALLY want the campsite to
show up. So I saw an approaching grass clearing on the trail and thought
"Ah, the heck with it, good a place as any to pitch a tent". Then I noticed
the sign that designated the camping spot. We had gone more than two miles
past where we originally wanted to tent! On the plus side, that much less
mileage to Daicey Pond tomorrow. Always an adventure on the AT. Especially
when you hike an extra two miles without meaning to. Nesuntabunt Mountain
was a hard climb with another rewarding view of Katahdin. Katahdin is so
close now, not quite sure what to make of it. Do not know what my reaction
will be when I make that last climb. Only one way to find out.-Paul
Mile Post 2134.4 ~ Daicey Field Lean-to g
July 31 ~ Amazing what the lure of ice cream, soda and cheeseburgers can do
to make a ten mile hike go by so fast. The five of us (Squanto, Blaze,
Camel, Tim and myself) bought much food at the campground store. The
convenience store quality food tasted like the finest banquet we have ever
had. By this point on the trail, all the thru-hikers are starving for
calories. Throw on the ice cream sandwiches! The more fat the better. Spent
a small fortune on junk food, but it was worth it. Seeing Katahdin from
Daicey Pond was an awe inspiring sight. Katahdin was so majestic looking,
dominating the horizon like no other mountain I have ever seen. So easy to
be mesmerized by this peak. I can see why the Abenaki called it "Greatest
Mountain". There was a subdued mood in camp tonight. The routine was the
same. Still had to filter water, cook dinner, clean out pots. But it was the
last time we would do this on the trail. Tomorrow will mark the end of our
focus for these past few months. The talk of this evening was still
lighthearted, but there was a subdued atmosphere just under the layer of a
typical night in camp. We were all affected by this trip, and I think all of
us thought about it in our own way. By coincidence, we all had the same last
meal. If there is ever an official meal for backpackers, it is mac n'cheese.
The fact that I still enjoy it after five months is a bit scary,
though!-Paul
Mile Post 2160.7 ~ Katahdin
Aug 1 ~ Woke up very early, even for me. By four-thirty, I was fully awake.
Could not wait to begin the final climb. Felt the same way when I was six or
seven years old on Christmas morning. I knew it was too early to get up, but
it was hard waiting for the right time. Finally, five o'clock rolled around.
The routine was the same, but today was different, I am climbing Katahdin!
Arrived at Katahdin Stream Campground with much excitement and anticipation.
Scanned the cars for some familiar faces. And I saw them. After five months,
many postcards, a few calls, I finally was able to see my friends and
youngest brother again. They all smiled when they saw me, but I think they
were not smiling when that oh-so-special hiker smell hit their noses! The
climb up Katahdin started up easy enough, I went at a slower pace so we
could all hike together, but when I hit the treeline, my pace really picked
up. Tim, my brother and Steve kept up with me – but Leo and Jim fell behind.
I did not even realize how fast I was hiking. When I saw I was on the Table
Lands and could see the Baxter Peak sign, I really picked up the pace. The
anticipation and excitement was too much. At maybe a quarter mile to the
summit, Tim asked me to wait here so he could take my picture as I approach
the summit. I reluctantly agreed. Very hard two minutes of waiting, let me
tell you. Finally, I pushed on again. When I reached the summit, and touched
the sign, I let out the loudest yell of my life. The emotions were that
intense. I had accomplished something that was theoretical five months ago,
and now it was real. Incredible feeling. Took the usual summit photos. My
friends packed up a feast. Cold cuts, bread, a bottle of Dom Perignon, and
they had a surprise in the form of 'sparkling wine' that they sprayed me
down with. (They later said I would smell better stinking of cheap wine!) On
my final hike, I packed in a full watermelon. Nothing like handing out
pieces of watermelon at 5267 feet. Long story behind this, have to explain
it sometime. My hike of the AT is over. No more white blazes to follow. The
AT will always be a part of me. I have seen sights that most people do not
see. I will remember the crunch of fresh snow under my boots, the way the
sun feels after many days of rain. The joy a cold soda can bring from a
complete stranger. The daily rhythm of hiking that seems to bring
tranquility. I have pushed myself physically, mentally, and emotionally
these past five months. It was not easy to do. But the rewards are many.
Horizons are now limitless, what can and cannot be done is redefined. The
Appalachian Trail was a special moment in my life. Never have five months
had so much meaning and purpose. These past five months I have learned more
about myself than I thought I could know. I now have a better idea of who
Paul Magnanti is. The memories and experiences of the trial will always be a
part of me. Climbing to Katahdin may have ended this journey, but in my
heart and thoughts, I will still be on the trail.-Paul